In this video, I shoot a 77. yet again breaking 80 but feeling like I left so many shots on the course.
Granted, the main focus was playing with Tsepho, a subscriber and now good friend, and I wasn't that focused on my game. It goes to show you just how important focus, clear thinking and not rushing are, to good scores.
If you're changing your swing, as I am, it's vital to work a lot on the driving range to really groove the new feeling in before hitting the course.
I struggled in the beginning of the round because as you know, under pressure, we revert back to our old habits and I started hitting AT the ball instead of THROUGH it.
We become so BALL-FOCUSED that we get tense and hit AT the ball as if that's where the swing ends. We need to remember to get to the finish of the swing, nice and balanced on the left side. Let the ball just get in the way of your easy smooth swing.
I have a very funny habit of letting the ball creep back in my stance slowly over 6 months periods.
As the ball creeps back, so the angle of attack of your club to the ball will become STEEPER and STEEPER. This is not ideal at all especially because lower lofted clubs become more difficult to hit as you try to "lift it" into the air instead of compressing the ball and allowing the club to do the work.
With this poor ball positioning and the ball-focused, steep swing, a couple things happen:
And of course, if you're crapping yourself about where the ball will go, you'll be tense when gripping the club. Tension in your hands runs through your arms, into your shoulders and neck. Hitting a ball at high speed, while tensed, is a sure way to injure your upper back and neck as well as your traps.
I put two shafts on the ground, one for alignment down the target line and one more lying on top of that one in a + shape. I place the ball in between the middle of my stance and the left heel depending on the club length. The longer the club, the further forward I place the ball.
I was hitting my wedges off my back foot and my driver was near the middle of my stance! No wonder, I couldn't hit anything!
Doing this drill with the + shaped shafts once a week will keep my brain in order and let my body remember where the alignment and ball position is supposed to be. If I don't do this, eventually, I will get into bad habits again.
Are you a smart guy? I think I am, but sometimes I do stupid stuff on the golf course even when I know the best solution or the best shot. It's usually EGO which brings on the HIGH STRESS GOLF.
The first question I used to ask myself was "where is the good miss?" as in, where, if I miss this shot, will I be safest to get up and down or have an easier next shot.
While that is a valid, good thought, I suggest thinking this massive question which will drop all your ego and help you enjoy golf again:
WHAT IS THE SIMPLEST SHOT I CAN HIT HERE?
That's all it takes. I discovered this during the round in the video. Instead of hitting a stressful shot because of your ego, you just pick the shot you KNOW you can hit and gives you a simple next shot.
For example in the round in the video:
HOLE 1: I hit a 3 iron off the tee on a tight hole under pressure to impress my subscriber. I hit a wedge into the green which means, I could actually have hit a 5 iron off the tee, 20 years back in the fairway and hit an 8 iron from the fairway into the green instead.
Do you see how that works?
HOLE 3: This is a big one! Around 180 yards to the pin and while I can get my 7 iron there and that would be the pin-high distance, what am I doing to myself?
The water is 9 yards or so in front of the pin. I'm hitting over a hazard to a pin 9 yards over the water with a club that will finish pin high! No! I should be hitting a 6 iron with a smooth swing because the back of the green is around 200 yards away. That's 20 yards of green behind the pin! That's stress-free.
Instead, I went EGO-GOLFING and smacked AT the ball under pressure, and hit it Out of Bounds and took a double bogey. Not good.
When hitting over hazards, we must hit a club that will clear the hazard and usually finish at the back edge. Forget the pin, safety first!
HOLE 5: After a smashing booming big drive up the hill (my best in recent memory), I proceeded to rush my second shot.
Now if you watch my BREAKING PAR VIDEO, you'll see I mention the THINK BOX and PLAY BOX. On my second shot, I did not properly plan my shot and get fully committed in the THINK BOX. I took that doubt into the PLAY BOX and screwed it up.
I should've committed to a smooth 54° wedge to the center of the green with a little draw and walk off with a par. Inside 120 yards, I can't afford to make doubles.
HOLE 8: Some holes we screw up, no problem, a bogey every now and then happens but what is important, is to get GREAT inside 100 yards.
I've been really working on my confidence and what made me really confident without changing a single thing was getting new wedges. Now, I am an arrow-blamer, not an Indian-blamer. I'm also a great proponent of the saying "a bad workman blames his tools, but a master craftsman knows when to get new ones." which I made up myself but whatever.
I got Cleveland wedges with a new gapping of 50°, 54° and 58°. New clubs always make me feel better because I'm not looking down at the ones I lost confidence in 5 years ago! You should do the same, and don't feel ashamed in the search for the right club.
A great club for you is just one you pick up, look at and feel great holding. There is literally nothing else to it. I've never hit a club badly which I liked to have in my hands and look down at. I have hit the latest technology that promises to change your game and when I looked down at it, I just knew I'd hit it badly.
That's the power of your mind and let me tell you, it's powerful which is why I focus so much on thinking, focus, commitment, will power.
HOLE 11: I didn't need to hit driver here but I really wanted to get it right as it's a new one. But this is a HIGH STRESS shot. I bring that water on the right into play. On the tee, I can't see much besides the bunker right. It's a stressful EGO GOLF shot.
What I should've done is hit a 3 iron because the landing area is so narrow at the hybrid and driver zone. A 3 iron up the left and perhaps another 3 or maybe a 5 iron into the green would've been perfectly playable on this stroke index 2 hole.
HOLE 12: I was unlucky to get the lie I did in front of the bunker. I was standing with all my weight on the left foot and the ball was IN FRONT of my left foot in ball position. I thought, well it will probably be a fat shot so I clubbed up to a 9 iron.
I flushed it so well that it flew over the green 25 yards. The important thing is to realize you're probably not going to par the hole, take your medicine and just chip it ONTO THE GREEN. Priority one! Hit the green!
HOLE 14: Downhill and downwind, this 183 yarder was playing more like 150-160 yards.
Now, the MOST IMPORTANT THING here is the severe danger of going OVER the green. Anything off to the left and directly over the pin falls onto hard, steep ground and you're finished - hole over, you may as well pick up and take a double!
Like hole three, the par 3, where we hit over water and focus on easily CLEARING the hazard, here we need to do it the other way round. We need to see how far it is to the front edge and hit it 10 yards past that to the middle front of the green. We must hit a club that can NEVER reach the back of the green with a perfect strike.
I should have measured to the front edge, 150 yards, and hit a wedge downhill downwind to land on the front-middle of the green. The wedge is extremely hard to pull but by hitting the 9 iron, focusing on the flag and putting unneeded stress on myself, I hit a tug with the 9 into NO-MANS-LAND. Double bogey thanks.
HOLE 18: I got away with this but you know what my thought was just before I hit the shot?
"Don't fade this into the water" - NOW THAT'S A HIGH STRESS THOUGHT
And what did I do? My brain heard "FADE THIS INTO THE WATER" and that's what I did.
We should think in positive thoughts: "Start this on the pin and draw it to the center left of the green." "Hit a 5 iron just short of the green, with no stress and chip and putt for the birdie"
Despite the poor shots and some poor thinking, I was able to scramble my way to a 77 on a pretty tough layout. But how?
This is the only area in the game where we can all be literally as good as a pro.
You may never be able to hit it like Brooks Koepka or be pin point accurate with a long iron like Jack Nicklaus. But you can chip and putt like a god.
I will produce more chipping and putting content to take you to the level of the pros so you can shave off 5-10 shots without even hitting the driving range!
For now, why not check out the following articles and videos for help with this:
Golf Sidekick - How to Putt Video
Golf Sidekick - How to Chip Video
I have a philosophy of allowing yourself to be crap sometimes and allowing yourself mental vacations. You need to be sharp with the short game and think deeper than you ever have but I promise, loads of guys have seen success by just allowing themselves to be imperfect. Check it out below:
I love bunkers. Let me say that again. I love bunkers! I never fear being in one because it's always a unique challenge to hit a good shot out of them. But with practice and the right fundamentals, it gets much much easier.
I hope my enthusiasm for bunker play reaches you and that with some of the tips I am going to show you, you become a great bunker play. Or at least get out of the bunkers first time!
After playing golf with mostly mid to high handicappers throughout my 20 years on golf courses, the number one issue I see when guys struggle with bunkers is merely incorrect technique with lack of practice.
Normally a couple things go wrong and keep the ball in the bunker:
With just the basics I want to show you below, you'll be able to get out of any bunker any time. But we need to build that foundation of basics from the ground up so you can be more confident to start trying new shots and getting cute and fancy with bunker shots.
DISCLAIMER: Bunker shot technique is tricky to start with and you'll feel really mentally blocked to be able to swing a club in the manner I present to you, but practice and losing that fear of failure will go a long way to building massive confidence. There is no way around it - practice and stick to the process.
To get started, here is a video from my channel to show you the basic techniques I use. Below the video, I go into more detail regarding each shot.
No theory and fluff here, let's get down to brass tacks.
First, your main objective next to the green in a bunker is to GET OUT. You can always chip or putt from the fringe or even over the back of the green if you catch it a little thin. But we just DO NOT want another bunker shot from the same bunker.
Not only is this frustrating because it's still in the sand, but you might roll back into your foot marks which makes it super difficult to get out on the next one. Add to that the embarrassment of staying in the sand and you're likely going to hit a bad shot.
Your secondary objective is to get it anywhere on the green if you can. Even if you get it 3 feet out the bunker onto the fringe, you can still hole that putt or two putt it to save an acceptable score.
When you move to next level ninja jedi bunker maestro, you can look at holing or putting bunker shots very close. For now let's get you OUT and ON THE GREEN.
Your feet should aim to the left of your target in an obvious way. So your front foot should be pulled further back than a normal shot where your feet are lined up parallel with the target line.
WHY? This encourages a stroke that cuts across the ball to help bounce the club off the sand and impart some back spin on the ball.
Opening the club face means you can expose the sole of the club to let it enter the sand first. We don't want to enter the sand with the actual leading edge of the club because it will dig into the sand.
We want to enter the sand an inch behind the ball and opening the club allows us to present the sole of the club to the sand first. The sole bounces off the sand and scoops under the ball, taking the ball out of the sand on a pillow of sand.
Forward shaft lean means the hands are ahead of the club head and this encourages a downward strike on the ball. If we do this in a bunker, the club digs in and the ball will pop up momentarily and stay in the bunker.
We want to get our hands in-line or behind the golf ball on a bunker shot to encourage an open face and expose that sole to the sand. This gives us a great chance to enter the sand and with the wrist action we are going to use, skim through the sand and get the ball airborne.
To release the club and get it under the ball and moving forward out of the sand, we need to take the club back and hinge hinge hinge the wrists. I like to get the feeling I am doing it with my right hand.
Stiff wrists are a killer in green side bunkers because you can't release the club properly to get it to skim through the sand. With stiff wrists, you can either dig into the sand and duff it or skull it - either way not ideal.
It's easy to get the jitters at the top of the swing and decelerate or stop the swing when entering the sand. What I would like you to work on, sir, is trying to slap that sand one inch behind the ball with the sole of the club and follow through to a full finish.
This is a scary idea I understand, but if you try this at the practice facility, you will gain so much confidence. You'll probably hit some duffs and skulls to start with but within 20 or 30 balls, you''ll be able to get the ball out of the bunker first shot.
KEY POINT: Slap the sand with the sole of the club using your right and and then follow through and feel like your right wrist is catching rain drops from above. Your club head will often be ahead of the ball initially and that is exactly what you want. Accelerate through the impact zone all the way to the top of the swing.
Hardly anyone will go to a practice bunker and work on these shots because they aren't very glamorous, but I tell you what guys, nothing impresses other golfers like the ability to get out of a green side bunker and put it to a foot.
Get down to a green side bunker facility and draw a line behind the ball where you want to enter the sand. Remember to hinge your wrists on the way back and again on the way down after follow through. Slap that sand with the sole of the club using your right hand and finish your swing.
My only other request is that you don't have anyone along your target line in the distance. You need a clear area so you feel free to make some mistakes when you teeth the ball - which will happen. But golf is a process not a destination so even when it feels like you're going nowhere, keep pushing and you'll come out the other side a better bunker player.
Remember the backward shaft lean. Remember to hit the sand ONE inch behind the ball - often people enter 4 or 5 inches behind it with the downward striking mindset. Check where you're entering the sand during practice and adjust and remember to hinge those wrists and slap the sand, not dig in!
Check out my article on the best wedges for sand and start with a 56° if you're really unhappy in the bunkers. You can then start experimenting with the low wedge and gap wedge as you improve. But for a start a 56 degree sand wedge with 12 or 14 degrees of bounce will serve you well.
If you play golf at a course with no sand in the bunkers, I am afraid you'll need to use a chipping technique as this technique above requires some sand to be in the bunkers. If your bunkers are truly horrendous, I would recommend joining another club or, more easily, avoiding the bunkers at all costs!
It probably works well 20% of the time. The technique above gets me up and down out of bunkers around 60% of the time.
This works if your sand is not too fluffy and the lip of the bunker is pretty square with the sand and there's no big lip.
Are you desperate to get that under-80 monkey off your back?
You're about to find out how to break 80 in golf in the simplest, most deconstructed guide you'll ever read. I've included videos of my friends and I actually breaking 80, shot by shot just to show you guys that I say what I do and do what I say.
You won't be changing your swing either. If the swing you have got you here, it's good enough to get you to break 80 so fear not my friend. You've always known how to break 80, but now it's time to take action and get that 'just broke 80' feeling!
There's no BS or fluff in this guide - I wanna show you how to stomp ass and take names. I've been breaking 80 for the best part of 16 years and I'd like to show you how too, so you can be a happier golfer having more fun than ever!
Some things will be instant fixes and "hacks" while others are going to require brain and will power to put into action but once you do, I promise that you'll start shaving off those last few strokes to get into the 70's.
Note: There are some repetitions in this guide from the breaking 90 guide I wrote. I've tried to put them all toward the end of the guide but if you've seen it before, maybe a refresh is a good idea!
There are guides out there telling you “79 is just 11 pars and 7 bogeys” is how to break 80 in golf, like it’s the easiest, most obvious thing in the world. It's too high-level and it doesn't actually give you anything to aim toward besides Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) which are totally useless. We need to go deeper than that.
Our brains are masters of deception and the 7 bogey-11 par theory is a dangerous one.
Let’s imagine we go to the course focusing on making 7 bogeys and 11 pars. Now let’s run a couple scenarios we can all relate to:
The net result with the “7 bogeys 11 pars” theory is that we focus on the outcome instead of the process. This is a surefire path to depression and eventual disillusionment with golf. I know because I’ve been there, taking long breaks over the years.
I hope you can learn from my 20 years on the golf course as someone who’s been a beginner, mid handicapper, scratch player and two-time quitter. I want you to enjoy the game more and score better so you never quit the game, so please read on sir - we're about to break down the actual process and not the outcomes to shooting sub 80 rounds of golf.
Six holes will be your ‘birthday’ holes to score how you like: six bogeys, or five bogeys and a double. Or two doubles, four bogeys and a birdie. The most important thing to remember is there is room for error so avoid becoming despondent if you make a double. The focus here is on the process of hitting smart shots and not on the outcome of the hole.
So what skills do we need to accomplish breaking 80 with the 6-6-6 method? Check it out below.
This might be a weird one, but golf is a game of errors as we all miss more shots than we make. The guys who score the best make the best misses.
Every course designer provides golfers with a ‘bail-out’ area and it’s our job as players to find these areas and use them as the designer intended. Often, by not scoping the surrounds of the green on our approach shots, we don’t plan for the miss and because we’re so hell-bent on pin-hunting, we miss the green in the worst position, short-siding ourselves.
We want to avoid certain situations:
Ideally we want:
Hitting six out of eighteen greens at your skill level isn’t difficult. But to increase your chances, we want to aim at the correct part of the green. By doing this, we increase our number of birdie chances and decrease the chance of making double and triple bogeys.
From my experience, the best rounds I’ve played have been the ones I plan best for.
A great strategy is to plan the hole from the green back to the tee. Let’s look at some examples.
Can you hit this 460 yard par 5 in two? Are you comfortable with a driver in your hands? How have you been hitting the driver today? What's your go-to club off the tee? Will your shot shape go toward a water hazard? Let's play the safest option with the best return on our investment.
If I'm hitting the driver well, I'm going for this one in two all day but that doesn't necessarily have to be with a driver. If I hit my 4 wood, I can reach it with a 3 iron. If I have no confidence with either of my woods, a hybrid off the tee can leave me another hybrid to the green or I might break the approach shot into an 8 iron and a gap wedge.
Think about what club you want into the green and then work your way back from there. If you can't hit it in two, say to yourself on the tee: 'ok self, I want to hit a nice smooth PW 100 yards into the green. I have 360 yards to go before that. I'll hit a 3 wood 210 yards and then a 6 iron 150 to set up my PW.'
Plan to your strengths on approaches and you'll see more birdies and less scores over par on the par 5's.
On any hole less than 410 yards, I spend a lot more time thinking about my tee shot. 410+ is an easy decision to reach for the big dog but these hole between 300 and 400 yards are tricky. We would do well to think ahead here.
Do we want a 100 yard shot into the green with more chance of hitting into hazards off the tee? Do we want a PW from 125 into the green with a medium amount of risk off the tee or a 150 yarder into the green, hitting our tee shot to the fattest part of the fairway?
Hit the club that avoids the dangers off the tee, but leaves you a comfortable shot into the green. Which club consistently shapes the right way for the direction of the hole? Which irons are you very happy to hit into the greens? Mine are 53°, PW, 7 iron and 6 iron. If I can hit my tee shot to any of those clubs distances, I am a very happy boy.
On par 4's, I might hit anything from a 6 iron to a 4 iron to a 4 wood off the tee. Whatever gets me in the best position for my approach! Forget what others think and play your game which often should include shorter clubs off the tee!
Flag hunting is usually what gets us in trouble and stops us breaking 80. Those pins tucked behind bunkers and next to steep run-offs are so tempting to shoot at but I bet if we took two guys: one who hits it at every pin over 18 holes and one who hits it at the heart of the green regardless of pin-location, the pin-hunter would lose badly.
Aiming to the middle of the green on most holes is more advisable. Beyond that, it’s even better if you aim at the part of the green where your normal shot shape will shape toward the target but if you hit a dead straight shit, you'll be in a safe position either on the green or facing an easy chip.
Going for sucker pins tucked behind bunkers is for the pros. The closer you get to the edge of the green, the more precise you need to be. Flying it over a bunker from 150 yards means you have far less green to land the ball on and hold the green. Aiming for the heart of the green gives you MUCH more space to hold a green and have a putt for birdie or par.
What's one of the worst habits we make as amateurs? We often plan for that 1 in 20 shot that goes 10 yards further than our average and we often leave the approach shots short in the bunkers or deep-grass valleys, short-siding ourselves. Getting up and down from here is extremely difficult. For lower scores, aim away from the pin and danger and use enough club to carry the trouble..
Use enough club to avoid the front side hazards and realize that there are bail out areas. Find the one place you want to avoid and take measures to avoid it. Find the one place you will be safe and hit it there!
The ultimate sucker pin. Notice how much green there is to the left of the pin? Right and short of the pin, NOT SO MUCH! You can miss the entire green on the left side and still have an easy chip. Short and right and you're in a world of pain.
Sometimes the hazards are in line with the green. Look for where the safe zones are. Usually short or long will be safe and in the picture above I would rather be short or long than right or left. I'd take one club extra and make sure I swing easy to avoid errant shots left or right.
As you can see, slope makes a huge difference. We don't want to be chipping over a bunker toward another bunker or hitting a bunker shot toward another bunker. Aim to the mid-point of the two bunkers and allow your shot shape to take over. Take one more club to make sure you get past the bunkers.
Often the bail-out areas have been made obvious by the designer. They normally leave a wide, flat fairway to one side of the hole or both. In the picture above, it's short right and left but long here is a no-no. Take advantage of the designers intentions. Unless it's a particularly mean designer, there should always be an area to hit to that will leave a relatively easy chip if you miscue the shot.
Sometimes we get so target-fixated that we don't even see how much green there is. Shooting at the pin above brings a chance of hitting it left in the valley or over into the bunker, leaving us a downhill bunker shot.
Adjusting the line just to the right of the pin means we open up a highway width part of the green. You might have a long 30 foot putt, but ut's definitely better than a 30 foot bunker shot onto a down slope or a chip up hill onto a down slope.
This is of such extreme importance, it should be the first thing golfers are taught after they learn to hit a golf ball.
I never thought I needed a rangefinder or GPS golf device until I got one and I wondered why I struggled so long without it!
For this section, a distance measuring device is non-negotiable. I personally use a Bushnell V3 Tour and Bushnell V4 Tour rangefinder to tell me distances to obstacles, hazards and pins. I pair that with the GolfShot application on my Android and Apple phones (yes I have both!) to measure and track my distances with each club. You can do this with a GPS golf watch too but I use my phone because I don’t like to wear any kind of jewelry.
Tracking your distances is easy and you just tell the phone or watch to start counting your distance from a certain point and then tell it to stop once you reach your ball. You then save that and specify which club it was and your device will store the information for you automatically.
The only thing is, it’s a pain in the ass to remember to track every shot but if you do it diligently for two or three rounds, you’ll get a real grip on your game.
That means that when you have a rangefinder to tell you the precise distances to pins and hazards, you have a perfectly accurate measurement to match to the distance you already stored for each club! You'll be filled with confidence and commitment once you know your game this intimately.
This is my single favorite tip in this whole guide and a rangefinder or GPS device are the best investments you’ll ever make in your game!
At different times, some part of our game can just suddenly switch off. It’s usually the long game for me.
So how do we fix this while we’re on the course and things are looking bad off the tee, around the greens or on approaches?
We develop one shot that we know we can fall back on at any moment under pressure or whenever.
We all have our favorite clubs in our bag and this should be your starting point. Work on those clubs at the range and on the course to feel like you can whip them out any time and pull off great shots when you're on the verge of mental breakdown.
My personal go-to shots are:
The club and style of shot you choose depends on your preferences and feelings. Play around on the range and have fun. You might discover a little secret that you can use on the course. Do it your way and forget what the gurus tell you in Golf Digest.
Recording your statistics is essential to analyze where you’re deficient and where you excel. Using your score card is the easiest way to keep track of how you played. Vital information I like to track is:
Afterward, we can look at a poor statistic and ask why it happened and then take corrective action through practice.
You can keep track of this all in the GolfShot app mentioned above..
It’s so easy to have a bad hole and throw the round away only to regret it after a few holes.
Breaking 80 is about discipline - whether sticking to hitting at the heart of the green, hitting irons off the tee, practicing your short game or splitting a 300 yard shot into two full shots - we need to stay on the path to greatness.
I play golf occasionally with an 18 year old kid who hits a 4-iron 240 yards, all carry. He hits a 9 iron from 165! Sometimes I succumb and try keep up with him and bomb every drive and take one less club on approaches.
You know what happens? I hit balls in the water; OB; top them; teeth them...all because I forget that I can still beat him hitting it shorter than him. Around the greens I'm much better than him! But the damage is done by the time I get to the green. We need to eliminate the silly errors from tee to green to give us a chance at par on every hole.
So another top tip is, PLAY YOUR OWN GAME regardless of anyone else. Don’t change club selections to impress anyone. Don’t be silly like me and hit a 9 iron from 160 when it only goes 148...just to show a youngster I can keep up!
Use positive talk and avoid getting depressed because the results are not what you expected. Sometimes we make good swings or putts but we just didn’t calculate winds or lines correctly.
Instead of throwing the club into the lake after your shot lands in the bunker short, assess the reason why it happened. We should be happy with the stroke but take corrective action immediately instead of letting our emotions take over. Did you pick the wrong club because of ego? Did you pull out of the shot because you thought you had too much club? Whatever the reason, take note of it and try to improve on the next shot. If it was a good shot, there is no reason to get upset.
See the missed green as an opportunity to show off your short game skills. After you top your drive, remember all those times you parred a hole after topping the drive. Replace thoughts like "oh here comes a bogey" with thoughts like "it just takes one good shot to save the hole".
Every poor shot is a learning experience for the rest of the round. There is one major reason for those bad shots at this level of golf though:
Lack of commitment
Having a plan for every shot and envisioning it in your mind is key to committing to shots and getting the result you desire. Making the correct club selection through knowing your distances and shot shape are the lifeblood fueling your goal of breaking 80. Doubting yourself destroys all the best-laid plans.
Our brains are so good at subconsciously talking us out of doing something or planting little seeds of doubt in our heads. Like when you’re on the tee and your brain says 'you don’t have enough to clear that bunker'. You then hit it in the bunker or top it because at the top of your backswing, your brain made your body tense up and autocorrect to match the actions dreamed up in your head.
You have a 7 iron into the green but you pull an 8 and stand over the ball thinking this isn’t enough club. Or when you’re standing on a divot on the tee box and all you’re thinking is, I should tee up somewhere else. But you don’t and mess up the shot!
How about when there’s out of bounds left, you’ve been hitting a fade all week and at the top of this back swing, your little lizard brain says “don’t hit it left”. With a solid commitment and focus on the positive language to describe your action, you’ll notice these top-of-backswing thoughts disappear.
We never seem to be able to reset and regain commitment to a shot when anything distracts us. We need no distractions and only full concentration and commitment to the shot ahead - flight path, club choice, distance and shape.
Here's the classic example. Don't think of an elephant! Are you thinking of an elephant? It's the same with golf. Don't hit it in the water! Are you thinking about a small lake now? That's where your brain wants the ball to go!
Use positive language when you’re planning and visualizing the shot in your mind before you hit it. You’re standing behind the ball imagining the flight path, where it lands and with what shape it’s going to take. Only hit that ball once your mind can see only that.
When there are hazards, avoid talking to yourself like this: “Don’t go left you idiot - you’re the kind of person who hits a fade but hooks it on the one hole with water left.” Say something like this: “I’ll start this one out over the center of the fairway and my baby fade will push it toward the right side.” Can you feel the difference? One statement starts with a negative "don't" and the other focuses on taking the positive action instead of avoiding something bad.
Honestly, this tip has made a HUGE difference to my game. I was the quintessential negative-talk specialist and my round could spiral out of control after the first missed green with a pitching wedge. When you feel the negative talking devil on your shoulder, start speaking in positives and remove the word "DON'T" and "CAN'T" from your vocabulary.
Hitting 135 yards into a par 4 for your second shot is a dream, but sometimes you miscue a shot and you make a double bogey out of nowhere.
Oh no! That’s when we go full John Daly and lose our minds. The main point of the 6-6-6 method is to get you working on a process instead of hitting pure KPI's. Our pursuit of better golf is the goal and by focusing on each shot, the actual result of the hole means nothing to us.
We look only at the shot in front of us as the most important so we can set ourselves up for the next shot. Never, ever, never, never hit a throw-away shot. You know when you duff your hybrid into the par 4 for your second shot? Under no circumstances are we allowed to rush the next shot because we’re angry. Reset and do better.
Go through your full routine and slow down. Consciously slow yourself down after a bad shot and make the next one the best shot you’ve ever hit because it might be the one that stops 3 feet from the pin and you jam an amazing par!
We really want to keep doubles and triples off the cards and one of the ways to do that is to remain in control of our emotions to make better decisions even after the worst of shots. There are so many other things to get genuinely upset over but a stray golf shot is actually a privilege. We're on the course, away from the nagging women and we're not in an office but on a beautiful golf course!
Relax - life could be worse.
Okay, so we can hit the greens through planning and execution with total commitment.
We can hit the ball to the heart of the greens and we know our distances, shot shapes and temperament.
We've done 80% of the battle right there.
But in the 6-6-6 system, we MISS up to twelve greens! So how do we get up and down 6 of those times to save a par to allow us some freedom to screw up?
Guys, there is no way around this one. The only difference between breaking 80 and shooting 85+ is getting up and down 50-60% of the time compared to hardly ever. So of the 12 greens we miss, we need to get up and down 6 or 7 times.
Luckily I LOVE the short game and I have a treat for you below. I hope some of my passion travels through my words on your screen, into your fingers, down your hands, stored to be transferred later to the club head.
Let’s get more in-depth...
This is the least glamorous part of golf so most people ignore it. To me, the finesse of a chip shot oozes just as much masculinity as a long bomb drive. I am in Nirvana when I’m chipping and when my putting goes south, I miss greens on purpose to chip instead!
How do we become a chipping boss? Practice.
Top tip: Choose one club you’re going to chip with the majority of the time and practice that at the chipping area a lot. By a lot, I mean twice a week, one or two hours a time. I would advise against a LW because it’s so much harder to predict the spin on lobby shots. I love the PW for my chipping.
Top tip: Don’t focus on the hole when chipping. Focus on the line like you would on a putt but then select a SPOT along that line to LAND the ball on. Be specific - like the size of a small coin in your country. Focus all your practice strokes on creating the stroke to get the ball to land on that spot and let the Golfing Gods take over the rest.
Top tip: Move the ball around in your stance and get a feel for it all. With my selected PW I can hit higher shots or lower skidders depending on the position of the ball in my stance.
Top tip: Once you become great at that one club, you’ll find when you’re in a position where you can’t use the PW because of slick greens, no green between you and the pin or chipping onto a downslope, you can just switch out to a higher loft (56° or 60°) and use the same technique with the same type of swing!
Top tip: If you have hard and dry fairways and rough at your course, get wedges with low bounce. This will help to stop the club bouncing off the surface and blading the chips. If you have moist, soft and fluffy fairways, you want wedges with bigger bounce and a chunky sole to get through the turf. Low bounce clubs will dig into soft ground.
Once you learn to chip like a boss, you need to convert those chips to pars. We’re going to aim to chip within two feet of the hole but sometimes we miss the line or overcook it. That’s where the ability to jam 5 footers all day will really cut strokes off your score.
Here’s how I learnt to putt and also how I practice putting.
There are two options for short putting.
1. Hit them hard and take the break out - I used to do this on bent grass growing up but since moving to Asia, I've needed to learn to putt on bermuda and other tropical grasses. With all that grain and how much it influences the putt, I use this technique only on uphill or flat putts AGAINST the grain.
2. Hit it soft and use the entire hole to your advantage - I've started using this technique and it works. Generally you're not going to be far off on your reads of short putts but with the wrong pace, it can leave you a 5 footer coming back if you hit it through the break.
What I now do is read the green, but then add a little more borrow and hit it just hard enough to get it to drop into the hole (not slam the back of the cup). By doing this, it moves the entrance of the hole to whichever side the break is coming from and relies less on lip-ins like slamming the ball hard.
It also increases the size of the hole by giving your ball the opportunity to dribble in even if you've over or under borrowed a bit because it's moving slower so it can lip in not out!
Nothing helps your putting if you don't have commitment. I played a golf holiday in Hua Hin Thailand in June 2018 and discovered you really need to just put your trust in the golf course, the grass, the grain and the universe. In fact, before I putt now, I'm telling myself "put it out there trust the universe"!
I know it sounds crazy but I've been draining way more of the tough 4 to 8 footers where I would usually under borrow and miss on the low side just by telling myself to trust the read and PUT IT OUT THERE.
Players of all levels seem to be allergic to bunker sand when they’re outside the bunker but never want to leave them when they’re inside them.
I love bunkers whether fairway or greenside. Below are a couple videos I prepared for you to learn how to get out of these hazards so you can shave a few strokes off your game.
Nothing is as important in your clubs as the correct shafts and if your swing is poorly suited to the shaft you have, you're going to have a tough time finding fairways and hitting more greens. I used regular shafts for years until a friend told me I needed stiff, maybe X-stiff shafts.
I went to the pro, he fit my driver with a 72g X-Stiff shaft and my irons with stiff shafts. I dropped from a 7 handicap down to a 1 within 6 months and won 8 Saturday competitions in a row after that!
Make the investment, visit a reputable club-fitter near you and reap the benefits of having clubs that you can no longer complain about. The toughest part will be knowing you are the only one screwing up the shots and not your equipment!
For years I rejected this idea. Until I tried it for the first time...in 2016! I'm draining way more putts and feel better off the tee that my club face is aiming in the right direction. This alone will shave 2 shots off your game on the greens if you aren't doing it yet.
It takes a while to get used to aligning the line accurately but pays off quickly. You'll take about one full round to master the technique and after that it's plain sailing.
Draw a straight long stripe on your golf ball to help you aim the ball toward the target off the tee and on the green!
When you tee the ball up, align the stripe down the fairway. On your putts, align the stripe to the line of your putt. Then line up your putter's alignment line with the stripe on the ball. Works like a charm! Now all you need to worry about on putts is the distance control.
Yes. The pros use this same technique and you'll often see in close up shots, their ball rolling on putts with a line down the middle. Important: don't take too long aligning the ball to the hole on greens. Don't slow down pace of play.
Some of these concepts will blow your mind and some will be things you've heard before. Either way, I hope you'll give them a chance to improve your game. I rejected a few of the ideas in this guide for years until I tried them myself and realized what I'd been missing. It may take some unlearning and rewiring of your brain and thought process, but it'll be worth it.
If you've made it this far, well done. Because the next few concepts below will make the biggest difference to your score. You WILL break 80 by following these guidelines.
You probably could've broken 80 already if you played off the correct tees!
How do you know which ones to pick? There are a couple of ways to select your tee box:
Average drive distance multiplied by 28. So if your average drive is 230 yards, a challenging length of a course should be 230 yards x 28 = 6440 yards maximum.
You can go 5% higher or lower. So a range of between 6000 to 6700 yards. You won't be able to match the yardage to a set of tees exactly, but close enough!
If there are too many par fours over 400 yards on the course you play, move up a tee.
Fuhgeddaboudit! Hey man, stay strong, it's your game and you're there to have the most fun. No one minds if you play off shorter tees during social rounds! If you're in a good mood because you're enjoying your game and that makes it more fun for the other guys, they really don't care. But if you're playing poorly and getting in a bad mood off the longer tees, then it'll make it more unpleasant for them
We all have our best golfing buddies and some of us are lucky to have good players as buddies. But often we get stuck playing every round with guys who aren't interested in progressing.
If your golfing partners are not as good as you, I suggest finding a group to play with sometimes where you're the worst player in the group. It doesn't have to be a huge difference in skill level but at least guys who shoot less than 80 most of the time (sub-8 handicappers)
Playing with better players will let you take a bit more time on your shots, because the other guys do. You'll care more about each shot, because they care about their shots. You'll notice how they approach each hole and how they score in the 70's which will rub off on you and you'll be breaking 80 in no time.
If you have a matchplay competition league in your area or in your club, join up. You'll be forced to play against other people to progress in the league but the other golfers will be in your handicap range so they'll be moderately better or equal to you. The extra focus and determination when competing against other guys will improve your scores.
Yes. You only need a club that you can trust to go 220 yards and hit the fairway. The only requirement is that the club can carry 200-220 or so yards to get you onto the fairways. This might mean you need to play off a more forward tee.
A good estimate is probably 10-15% of golfers know how to and can break 80 in golf worldwide.
If you can shoot 80 to 85, you don't need a lesson for your swing but you may need a lesson on the short game.
All you really need at this level is to practice, use the techniques and tips I've given you here and make sure your equipment is suited to your swing. That's where the pro comes in handy. He can fit your driver and irons to your swing speed, tempo and shot shape.
I would actually say getting fitter and more flexible will improve your golf more than a lesson.
Please leave a comment with any other tips you've found to improve your game and if you disagree with anything I've mentioned here let me know. Good luck and enjoy shooting in the 70's.
I own both the Bushnell Tour V4 and the older Bushnell Tour V3 so I'm able to compare these two excellent devices with some authority and in this article, I'll run through the key differences and similarities between the two.
Before we do some comparisons with the Bushnell V3 vs V4, it's important to state that a golf rangefinder is the easiest investment to make in your game for maximum return. It's not complicated, you don't need to grind out hours on a driving range or go to the gym to use one. It's a point and shoot device that helps you pick the right club in every situation without doubt.
Onto the rangefinders...
5 - 1000 yards
5 - 1000 yards
300+ yards to flag
400+ yards to flag
2 year warranty
2 year warranty
The V4 and V3 from Bushnell are very similar in features and within the housing, there isn't too much to differentiate between them. Performance-wise, they perform similarly in terms of speed of use, ease-of-use and accuracy - two of the most accurate and quick golf rangefinders on the market.
Below I've highlighted the noticeable differences between in the Tour V4 model that may affect a buying decision. Both are great little devices and you can't go wrong with even the Tour V3 if you can find one.
The Tour V4 is a much newer model which naturally brings a feeling of an upgrade or redesign. And the housing is certainly much nicer and newer looking than the Tour V3. The Tour V3 looks quite clunky and feels old school with a less ergonomic design.
Aesthetics aside, the ergonomics are marginally nicer for smaller hands on the V4.
On the Tour V4, your thumb padding slots in nicely to the bottom of the device and the added grip on the top of the device is a nice touch for single-hand use without it slipping and dropping to the ground.
The Tour V3 performs equally as quickly as the Tour V4 but the Tour V4 is much smaller in size and weighs 15% less than the Tour V3. I have size 23/24 hands which are not very big and the Tour V4 fits nicely into my palm with my fingers curled around it.
For guys with bigger hands, the Tour V4 might feel quite small.
While the housing and the size has changed, the performance of the Tour V3 and V4 are pretty much identical. The JOLT technology which notifies you with a vibration that the device has found the distance is the same in both devices. Range and magnification are identical but where the Tour V4 seems to edge the V3 is in flag-seeking range. It can pick up a flag from 400 yards while the V3 can pick flags up at 300.
Why would anyone need to shoot a flag at 400 yards? Well, I thought the same and then one day I wanted to know how far the flag was and it was 369 yards away instead of the 397 yards on the card. That made a huge difference to my tee shot where I would rather hit a 3 iron instead of the driver off that tee.
The Tour V3 is an old model and with all obsolete models, support and interest from the manufacturers dwindle. If you can find a good second hand Tour V3, go for it because it's an amazing product but if you're buying new, I would always say go for the Tour V4. I love mine.
I admit, I'd never heard much about Volvik until Bubba started playing that pink ball. So I bet when you think of Volvik, you think "oh it's those funky color golf balls'. But I did some investigating and what I found was quite interesting.
They've been around since 2010 and in the USA since 2012 and there are a lot of different models. In total, I've seen 16 models but only played 13.
Two-time Masters champ Bubba Watson switched to the White Color S4 at the beginning of 2017. Craig Stadler plays the Vista iV while Tim Petrovic plays the S3. In a few short years they've made an impact and continue to get more popular as we start to look beyond Titleist for our golf ball needs.
The head office is located in Gangnam in Seoul - one of the most upmarket areas in the capital of South Korea. Now that's South Korea, not the one with the crazy Pillsbury dough boy as it's supreme leader.
The factory is located in South Korea in some place I can't pronounce. Very far from the border it seems, so it should be safe from King Jong Un using the balls to infiltrate the United States.
I hear this phrase every time I bomb one down the middle. According to federal law, Volviks are not illegal and you won't be put behind bars for owning them or even selling them. It should be illegal to have them though, because they're as addictive to hit as taking a hit of other illegal things.
In terms of the USGA rules though, all Volvik's balls do confirm to the required standards for tournament play. Only the Volvik Magma doesn't meet the regulations on golf balls and can't be used in tournament play. Like all things in golf, during social rounds, if your friends don't mind, anything's worth a try.
I played 13 different types of Volvik and I'm going to run through a quick review of a few of the balls in terms of feel, performance and distance.
Very bright matte finish - very long with mid-low spin
mid - high
Subdued, matte finish- softer feeling cover than Vivid
mid - low
Tour quality 4 pc urethane (scuffs very easily)
Tour quality 4 pc urethane (scuffs very easily)
mid - low
Hard feel, long distance for moderate swingers
begin - mid
Low compression, soft urethane 3 piece
begin - mid
Soft feel with good spin but prefer Taylormade 4 piece
low - mid
Unique cover material on a premium golf ball
low - mid
Mid compression for distance
begin - mid
Volvik Magma doesn't conform with the USGA rules so isn't advised for tournament play.
The Volvik Luxury is for women and we are men. Men don't play with women's balls.
Both balls are aimed at lower swing speeds so an older playing partner (74 years old), Kurt hit them but didn't notice much difference between the balls he normally plays and the two Volviks. Probably because he lost them in the river off the first shot, which is what he does with his usual ball.
The Eyes-on 3 piece and the Blue 90 are older balls and feel like rocks. I wouldn't recommend them.
I've played mainly the Vivids, S3, S4, VIBE, Crystal Distance and Vista iV for the last few months over 20 or so rounds. I've hit over 1600 shots with them in total and practiced with them on chipping and putting greens. I guess the Vivids piqued my interest in Volvik after the corporate golf day I played in where they gave me bright orange Vivids. So I immersed myself in Volvik magic. Below are some of my findings.
Volvik Vivids are long. I even noticed a couple yards increase in distance on my irons. On drives, they're very long with minimal movement. If I try hit a big Bubba slice, the Vivids just don't want to co-operate, preferring to go straight.
They're by far the easiest to see while tracking in-flight and what you'll notice is they seem to stay in the air just a second longer than other balls. I often overshoot my usual distances especially into the wind with a penetrating ball flight that rarely balloons.
You won't be ripping the ball back on approach shots with a Vivid but I found on pitching wedge shots from 135 yards, the ball consistently ends about 2-3 feet from the pitch mark. If, like me, you chip with a lot of bump and runs, the Vivid is a consistent performer and the ball I chip in with the most often. The matte-finish seems to take a bit more grip on the green than other surlyn covered balls.
The matte finish of the ball makes it feel a lot softer than it is. The ever-reliable "bite test" tells me the cover is softer than a truly hard Rock Flite golf ball but not soft enough to be a Tour level ball. It feels like a Srixon Z Star or Titleist NXT Tour. Off the putter, the ball actually feels quite soft.
Overall the Volvik Vivid is a seriously fun golf ball to play with. I love the green as well as the dark & light orange design. The little arrow on the side of the ball makes it simple to line up to the target off the tee and on the greens. For a mid-range golf ball, this is great value especially for guys swinging it below 90 mph.
Volvik Vivids are really bright but the Volvik Vivid XT is far more subdued and in a way quite refreshing to your eyes after playing the flashy original Vivids. Even better is this is a 4 piece ball.
I tried the Vivid XT's out for a round at Dynasty Golf Course in Bangkok and instantly I noticed they make a much more muted sound off the club face than the Vivids. It was strange because the compression is so high at 100. The ball flight was pretty similar to the Vivids, but the biggest difference came on shots inside 150 yards.
The Vivid XT sat down within 3 feet on very hard greens which were not friendly in accepting my Callaway Supersofts the week before.
Even more of a surprise was how much more bouncy off the putter face the XT's are. With the normal Vivids, it's harshly apparent when you mis-strike a putt, the XT bounces off the face more like a premium ball giving you a softer feeling feedback.
If you look in my picture above, you'll see the yellow Vivid XT has a wrap-around arrow that circles the entire ball. This makes it extremely easy to align your ball to your putting line or line off the tee without needing to draw a jagged one on with your shaky hands.
The ball stopped much quicker than the plain Vivids. On the par threes, I compared the performance and the Vivid XT stopped around 3 feet from the pitch mark with an 8 iron, while the Vivids were closer to 6 feet. Off the putter, I'd say the feel was more like a slightly harder Pro V1.
Overall, because I swing the club at 109 mph, I will replace the Volvik Vivids in my bag with the Volvik Vivid XT from now on. The performance was far superior with my swing speed being much higher than the recommended for normal brightly lit Vivids.
I couldn't really tell the difference between the two. They both have extremely soft covers where the S3 feels very similar to a Pro V1 and the S4 feels even softer - almost like you'll rip the cover right off with a single hard lob wedge. Both balls also have a seam running around the middle of the ball like the Pro V1's used to - and I like that.
Performance-wise, these balls are the business. The $40+ price tag is no surprise because the White Color S3 and S4 performed exactly as a Pro V1 with long tee shots, and back spin I don't even get with Pro V1's anymore. On the 135 yard pitching wedge test, the S4 ripped back to usually around a foot behind the pitch mark while the S3 stuck exactly where it landed.
The S4 was especially easy to check up on 30 and 50 yard pitch shots while off the putter face, the S4 felt very buttery soft while the S3 had the same click as the Pro V1. If you're a bump and run fan like me, you want to be more aggressive with these balls because their softness means they run out much less.
As with all urethane balls, the cover scuffs really easily particularly the S4. The S3 seems a bit more resilient.
I like this ball because it's just insanely long.
The Crystal is just so long compared to other balls in the Volvik range, that if you're a slower swinger looking for a boost in distance and accuracy it's for you. The ball doesn't shape much and prefers to go straight too - it just feels so similar to a Bridgestone E6.
But make no mistake, this ball is hard. And by hard, I mean yes, it can feel like hitting a rock. On the 135 yard pitching wedge test, the Crystal usually finishes about 8 feet from the pitch mark - I just couldn't stop it quicker. On bump and runs, you want to be a little gentler because the ball runs out a lot more than others.
I gave a sleeve of these to my playing partner, Dietmar who plays off an 8 handicap and plays any golf ball, as long as it's free! Dietmar isn't long off the tee (230 yards) and likes a firm golf ball for more rollout to reach the greens easier. He shot a 78 with the Crystals so it just goes to show that hard balls can also produce good results, depending on your priorities.
A couple points he noted were that the ball felt like a Top Flite Infinity but he noticed more carry with the Crystals and hit more hybrids instead of fairway woods into the greens. Off his Odyssey Rossie putter insert, he liked the firm click of the ball. It took him some time to adjust to the chipping though because these balls run run run.
The VIBE has been produced to compete in the low compression market and is often compared with the Chrome Soft. Volvik have put a urethane cover on the low compression VIBE though and this gives it a much softer feeling around the greens with way more bite than any Surlyn covered ball.
There's something about this ultra low compression trend that is a bit maddening so it's nice to see Volvik responding with a more moderate 65 compression instead of the sub 40 and even zero compression balls you see released lately.
With that low compression, you get the lower spin off the longer shots which means higher distance numbers. But couple that with the urethane cover, and you're able to stop the ball quicker and get more control in the short game than most other low compression distance-oriented balls.
It's very easy to gauge the roll out of the ball almost immediately and this makes playing bump and runs and pitch shots much simpler. The feel off the putter is marshmallowy and while a turn-off for me, it does feel great off a steel faced putter.
On the 135 yard pitching wedge test, the VIBE stops almost on the the pitch mark and overall gives me similar performance to a Chrome Soft I prefer the VIBE mainly because I love Volvik.
At first, I didn't play with these after I bought a whole bunch of Volviks because initially I thought they were just a hard ball. But upon closer inspection and through more "bite testing" with my teeth on the cover I thought, hey this doesn't feel like a distance ball at all. And when you actually read the name, it's a Volvik Vista iV 4 piece!
So while this is a four piece golf ball, if I were looking at a 4 piece ball, I'd choose a Taylormade TP5 at a lower price with a much softer cover. If durability is an issue, the cover on the Vista is Zirconium Z-I which really means it's not urethane so it's much more durable than a urethane ball. I've hit this ball hard and I've hit it wild and the cover stays in great shape.
On the 135 yard pitching wedge test, the Vista stops at around a foot and a half past the pitch mark. While I'm disappointed with that result from a four piece, the fact I don't have to replace one after a few wedge shots is good news. The Taylormade TP5 behaves similarly to the Volvik S3 and stops on the spot with a wedge.
Off the putter face, the Vista is my favorite feeling ball of all the Volviks. It's the right mix between firm and soft and with all the buttery balls out now, I really enjoy putting the firmer Vista iV.
Probably the ugliest name ever given to a golf ball, the Pro Bismuth is a steal at the price they sell it for. In this price range, you'll struggle to find a ball that works as well from inside 100 yards and around the greens. Remember though, it's for fast swingers.
With the 135 yard pitching wedge test, the ball stops within 2 feet of it's pitch mark and I like how durable the cover is as it's made from the same material as the more expensive Volvik Vista iV golf balls.
Off the tee and on approach shots the ball feels and performs like a premium golf ball but the big difference comes around the greens. I really suggest most golfer shit bump and run chips and not the two bounce and down chips. The expensive premium balls are too tricky to control around the greens without massive skills so this is where a ball like the Pro Bismuth comes in handy.
When you chip with it, it rolls out evenly and consistently regardless of the strike unlike a very soft, expensive urethane covered ball. Off the putter face the ball feels like a Srixon Soft Feel and will be perfectly fine for most golfers. Keep in mind though, this ball is aimed at golfers with swing speeds far above 90 mph.
With a compression of 77, the ball is made for the average swing speed with the focus on increasing distance. It's a two-piece so it's a firm ball to help generate some more carry and roll out off the driver face.
If you have an average swing speed and you want some more boom boom, the DS77 is for you. While they do promise extra control and soft feel around the green, to be honest, it's not going to give you some kind of crazy touch around the greens. This a pure, hard distance golf ball with a very durable cover - the feeling would be similar to a Titleist Velocity or a Srixon AD333.
If you're looking for some extra distance and swing below 95 mph, this is a nice option. My swing is a bit fast to take advantage of the benefits of the ball. The pitching wedge from 135 yards usually resulted in the DS77 finishing about 8 feet from the pitch mark and on bump and runs, the ball runs out very long but very consistently.
This ball ticks all the boxes of a distance golf ball and if that's your priority, don't get too hung up in the marketing and sales talk about this ball feeling soft and unique. It's a nice colorful distance golf ball plain and simple.
Your priority will determine what type of ball you use whether it's for Tour performance for advanced players or just some extra yards off the tee with less errant shots as a higher handicapper. Volvik might be new kids on the block but they've got a range of balls to fit everyone and it you love colored golf balls, there just isn't a better option for high visibility.
It’s never the number you think it is, is it?
You pace it out, you check the sprinkler head and you don't know if it's to the middle or front of the damn green.
Okay, it’s not quite like having someone carrying your bag, but having one of the best golf rangefinders is going to be the best investment you make and is the one piece of equipment in your bag you can depend on, on every shot.
It’s become an almost essential part of any golfers bag and certainly part of mine.
Below, I’ve identified the best golf rangefinders so that you too can hit shots with confidence, knowing you have the carry covered and that the club you have is the right one. This is so important to committing to a shot!
Rangefinders that JUST missed the cut
I own both the Tour V3 and the Tour V4 and it’s easy to see the V4 is much smaller. Picking up the pin is much quicker in the new model. It’s a well-made, sturdy laser rangefinder like all the Bushnells, just much smaller which is good for me because I have small hands (size 23).
In the Patriot Pack you’ll get
In a word, yes. It’s difficult to explain just how different a Bushnell functions to other models unless you’ve used one.
The V4 is so compact, even if you have smaller hands like mine (size 23), you’ll be able to use it very easily.
No other brand can find pins as quickly as a Bushnell. They’re super quick and it’s rare to need to shoot a target 4 or 5 times like other models.
The V4 is water resistant.
There is only one button on the top of the device. You put the rangefinder up to your eye, point at the target, click that button once to switch it on. Then center your target and hold the button down until the distance is displayed. Put it back into your carry case and it will auto-off in half a minute.
No problems for color-blind golfers. The numbers on the display are black. You can also use either the left and right hand to operate the device, totally unhindered.
I wear prescription sunglasses on the golf course and the viewfinder works perfectly pressed up to my lenses.
Running on a CR-2 Lithium battery, the Bushnell V4 lasts between 40 and 50 rounds.
After being so happy with the V3, I decided to pull the trigger on the V4 and have been even happier with the performance so I’ve given the V3 to a friend who was using a Nikon Powershot. He prefers the V3 due to Bushnell’s reliable accuracy and speed. I can whole heartedly recommend both the V3 and Bushnell Tour V4 as one of the best golf rangefinders on the market.
There’s a good reason Bushnell are the forerunners in the race to be the best distance finder manufacturer. Their products are solid and function at the top of the class.
They make the best golf rangefinders for guys who want reliability, quality and efficiency. These things do come at a price and a lot of golfers wonder if it’s worth it. Bushnell’s Pro X2 has a hefty price tag so let’s see why.
This is a big, sturdy and heavy rangefinder. That’s not to say it’s cumbersome though. It’s just a lot different to the Bushnell V4. A waterproof metal casing protects the rangefinder from damage and can be used in wet weather without problems.
You really feel like if you dropped this on a cart path it would still be working perfectly.
As with the newer Bushnells, the Pro X2 features JOLT technology which sends a ‘jolt’ of vibration into your hand once it has locked onto the target and calculated the distance. Coupled with the Pin Seeker technology to scan for a flag, it’s really easy to get your distance.
The Slope-switch allows you to just shift a switch up or down to move between slope and non-slope function. It’s so convenient that it’s almost tempting to cheat in a tournament because no one would know!
Remember you’re not allowed to use the slope compensation feature on your rangefinders in a tournament and the X2 is able to calculate the undulation and give a more accurate true distance reading. The pros will use this feature in practice rounds to prepare for those high pressure situations.
It’s possible to select either the standard black colored text on the display or a red hue by pressing a button on the housing. I’m unsure why though, since red and green are the two most common colors for color-blind guys to mix up. The Stable Grip technology has been included to stabilize our shaky hands for more effective shooting.
Casing is larger in the Pro X2 for more steady shooting of targets
Casing is sturdier and can take more abuse than the V4
Much simpler to switch between slope and non-slope mode in the Pro X2
Pro X2 has the option to change the display to red numbers in addition to black while V4 is only in black text.
No problems for lefties to use the Pro X2 and color blind golfers will want to use the black text on the display and not the
red! You can change between the two easily.
I wear prescription sunglasses on the golf course and the viewfinder works perfectly pressed up to my lenses.
The price is pretty steep (slope joke - har har) on this one so it’s for:
Precision Golf is a little company that’s trying to compete with the big boys to make access to rangefinders more affordable while not skimping on quality.
The NX7 comes with the essentials
If you’ve been spoiled already by using a Bushnell, you’ll notice the plastic and construction of the NX7 feels less ‘high-end’ than a Tour V4. That’s not to say its bad quality though. If the Bushnells are 9/10, the Precision NX7 is 7.5/10 just on how the device feels. It’s the same as a guy complaining that a Srixon Soft Feel feels harder than a Pro V1. Of course, for there’ll be differences for less than half the price.
Right out the box, the rangefinder is ready to go, battery already installed. There are two modes - slop and non-slope and one of the two buttons on the device allows you to switch between the modes easily.
You merely press the green button once without holding it in to switch it on. The cross-hairs come up onto the display and once you line them up to your target, press the button again until you see a ‘+’ sign whereupon you release it and the device vibrates with the distance on display. This is one of the most surprising things about the NX7 Pro - it includes a feature like the vibration which is generally not found at this price point.
With a 6x magnification, the NX7 Pro definitely meets expectations at the upper end. Shooting the pin from 330 yards is easy enough and at the realistic ranges of inside 200 yards, it’s a piece of cake. The distance is given to the nearest 10th of a yard which is very impressive but a bit overkill unless you’re Dustin Johnson.
Finding the distance takes slightly longer than the top range models but in no way is that additional time a deal-breaker. We’re talking a couple seconds more instead of instantaneously.
The NX7 Pro is half the price so does that mean the optics are half as good? Definitely not - the optics are excellent and while not Swarovski-clear, it’s very easy to find your target.
The display of the NX7 is quite busy though and coupled with a 6x magnification, it’s the opposite of minimalist. Is it a deal breaker? Not really just a minor gripe.
Recreational golfers who want a rangefinder that’s not going to wipe the kids’ college fund out will like this product.
No problems for lefties to use the NX7 Pro and color blind golfers will have no issue.
The viewfinder works perfectly pressed up to lenses.
Let’s face it, golf rangefinders are quite pricey but at this price, getting a Precision Golf NX7 is like stealing. The only drawback to this model is it doesn’t have Bushnell-level finishing touches or optics but that’s why it’s priced so well. In the end, it does the same job at a fraction of the price and comparing it to a Bushnell is unfair. It’s top of its class.
It’s an expensive piece of equipment but if you play a lot of golf or golf at a high level and want distances lightning fast then this rangefinder has your name on it. And if you can’t seem to ever stabilize a compact rangefinder over your target using just one hand, the Pro X7 is the one for you.
If I didn’t wear prescription sunglasses on the course, I would prefer this rangefinder - it’s just so easy to use. If you wear glasses too, read below to find out why I don’t recommend it.
When you first pick up the Pro X7, you'll think it’s a pair of binoculars. It’s very bulky but with that bulkiness, comes the ability (no, necessity) to use both hands. This immediately makes it easy to shoot your target instantaneously without the usual swaying of your hand using a compact rangefinder.
The button on the top side is easy to press with either hand and within a split second you have your distance thanks to the ESP (Extreme Speed Precision) technology. It’s the quickest rangefinder I’ve ever tried.
Left handed golfers can easily click the button with their dominant hand to get a reading. Color-blind golfers might have a problem because the display uses bright red text and cross hairs. The red is really bright and glows like an electric alarm clock but if you’re color-blind, I’d stay away from this one.
This is the big downside for me. I wear prescription sunglasses and this is the only rangefinder I have difficulty with. The eye relief on the scope means I need to position the rangefinder perfectly on the lens otherwise half the picture is blacked out.
It’s probably something you could work out and be consistent with eventually but it was a deal breaker for me since I birdwatch and know how annoying it can be with extended eye relief on scopes and binoculars when you wear lenses.
Runs on a CR-2 Lithium battery
The Pro X7 is the easiest rangefinder to keep stable and the quickest I’ve used to shoot the distance. I love holding it with two hands without swaying or needing to shoot the target 3 times to triple check. My major gripe which stopped me purchasing it though, was that using it with prescription lenses was a pain in the ass. If you don’t wear prescription lenses, you’re not color-blind and you are a serious golfer, this is the best golf rangefinder on the market.
In a world of quite high-priced equipment, Breaking 80 have come along with a laser rangefinder a quarter of what you’d expect to pay. And if you’re skeptical about the quality of the product, if you register with them, they offer you a lifetime repair or replace warranty. Lifetime. Let that sink in.
As you can see in this Reddit thread, the owner of the company is deeply involved in Breaking 80. Their customer support is fantastic and with a lifetime warranty and 60 day no questions asked return, it’s hard to beat.
The IS500 has a flag seeking technology to pick up flags easily and displays the distance quickly with a little vibration to alert you it’s finished. Like with most budget golf rangefinders, it’s more difficult to pick up distances from 250+ yards. It does have a very bright LCD screen which is easy on the eye.
When holding a Breaking 80 rangefinder, you can feel it’s not as high-end as expensive models but of course that’s to be expected at a third of the price. In the end, the Breaking 80 IS 500 does the job required and captures distances to whatever target you set it on.
Some people have trouble using it correctly and with the pin seeking technology, you actually need to shoot the distance to the background objects behind the pin and scan back toward the pin. Once the crosshairs scan over the pin, a lower distance reading will pop up and that’s the rangefinder finding the pin. You have a generous 8 seconds to scan and you usually won’t use more than 3 seconds or so.
LOL, the rangefinder itself is bright red so maybe the whole unit is a bit confusing but when looking through the eyepiece, there is no problem. Lefties holding with their left hand won’t prevent the laser from finding the target.
The Breaking 80 poses no problems for eye lense wearers.
Runs on a CR-2 Lithium battery
The lifetime warranty and 60 day money back guarantee is the biggest advantage of this budget golf rangefinder. When an item is low-priced there is always trepidation to buy in case it’s a piece of junk. The Breaking 80 is certainly not a piece of junk and performs the job it’s designed for.
It may not be Usain Bolt, more like Warren Gaitlin, but who wouldn’t mind running a 100 like him? With the aforementioned warranty and guarantee, it’s worth a shot because there’s nothing to lose. Easily one of the best golf rangefinders for value for money.
It’s about the same size as a Bushnell Tour V4 but the CaddyTek CaddyView doesn’t come with the JOLT technology (where the device vibrates when it locks onto the pin) and also comes with a cloth pouch with velcro and not a hard case. But the accuracy of the readings are the same as a Bushnell which means HIGHLY accurate, and fast too!
To get slope function at this price is also a phenomenal deal. Disabling the slope function is easy - just remove and replace the little plate on the side of the device.
But what makes it so good is that it takes no more than 5 seconds to pick up the rangefinder, lock on the flag, get a reading and put the device back. This little golf rangefinder is packed with value. When shooting multiple readings from the same spot, the distances are always within one yard of each other.
The little micro adjuster on the eye-piece works really well to clarify the image when looking through the peephole. Another nice feature when looking through the eye-piece is that the digital display is easier to read than a lot of models even the Bushnells. With 6x magnification, you’ll be able to pick your target up easily.
The digits on the digital display are black and are easy to see against the green background of the course. No problems for lefties here.
The eye relief is very small which means there are no problems with glasses-wearers.
Runs on a CR-2 Lithium battery
Considering you get slope functionality at such a low price in the CaddyView, if you don’t need the vibration when picking up pins and don’t mind a Velcro soft pouch, then this is an excellent rangefinder. Picking up distances is quick and easy especially to bunkers, trees or banks over water. Where the rangefinder loses minor marks comparing to the expensive models is picking up flags, where the Bushnells are really much more proficient. But are these minor things worth the extra money for an expensive model? If I were on a budget, I would say...NO, the CaddyTek is great.
These things get rave reviews but I’m really not sure why. The construction is cheap and very difficult to keep stable to shoot the distance to a pin over 150 yards away. When getting a reading, multiple readings need to be taken to ensure an accurate number but the distances can vary wildly from the same spot.
It’s very well-priced and with so many people online saying it’s fantastic, it might be tempting to get one but I can’t in good conscience recommend this product. For similar money, the Precision Golf Nexus golf rangefinder is much better value.
The most common reason people use golf rangefinders is to calculate the distance to pins but they can perform a few more useful functions to take your game to the next level.
The greatest benefits of a golf rangefinder is the ability to measure distances accurately from one point to another.
Measure your drives: So instead of only measuring distances to the pin, you can also use the rangefinder to determine how long your drives are. What I like to do is pick a tree, or marker or bench in line with the tee box and then once I reach my drive, measure the distance from where my ball is back to the preselected bench, tree, ball washer, concrete marker.
This will help you when you measure a distance to a hazard from the tee and know exactly which club to use. You’ll be able to swing with total confidence knowing that you’ll be safe.
Learn your carry distances at the range: Measure the distances to pins and distance markers on the driving range and then go through your clubs until you find the club that carries to the pin or distance board. We want to know the carry distance and not the roll-out distance.
This will help you when approaching a green when you need to carry a bunker or water. It’s also ESSENTIAL to know your exact distances you hit the ball to achieve lower scores.
When looking through the rangefinder, you’ll see your target, magnified so it’s similar to looking through a monocular. There’s usually a crosshair in the middle of the display that you point onto the target and generally when you press a button on the top of the device, a distance will pop up on the display once the rangefinder has settled on how far you are.
The tricky part comes when you have a pin in front of a row of trees because it can be difficult for the rangefinder to pick up the pin. That's why when looking for a rangefinder it’s always good to find one with a technology that finds the pin and puts the priority on the closer object. That’s why I always recommend rangefinders made exclusively for golf - like all the devices in this list.
This is the big difference between hunting and golf rangefinders. Hunting rangefinders will put the priority on the moving object which is very often behind trees and bushes whereas in golf, the priority is on the item in front of the bushes - the pin.
Rangefinders are incredibly accurate and most of the top professionals use them during their practice rounds to calculate the distances so if it's good enough for guys earning millions per shot it's definitely good enough for us.
The only time it’s difficult to use a rangefinder will be when you can’t see the pin because you’re behind trees in the deep trouble.
GPS watches use satellites to pick up your location in relation to the middle, front or back of the green. You’ll generally only you get a reading to those three points and in some of the higher end models, you’ll get readings to a selection of hazards.
A rangefinder shoots a laser directly toward your target and once it hits the target it sends back the message to give you the exact distance. These distances are accurate to 1 yard and you can select the target yourself, while GPS gives you distances to spots on the course that you have no control over.
So while a GPS will tell you how far it is to a bunker, it doesn’t tell you how far it is to carry the bunker. A rangefinder allows you the freedom to select the target and get multiple customized targets for distances.
Some rangefinders come with a “slope” function which calculates the true distance to the pin taking into account the elevation changes up or down. So an uphill shot might be 170 yards in distance but factoring in the angle of elevation, the true distance might 183 yards. That can make a massive difference to your score if you’re choosing the wrong clubs.
During tournaments, you’re not allowed to use the slope function though. But in general play you may use it so it depends on your goals and what you’re looking to achieve.
If you’re a really good amateur player who plays in national or regional competitions, you can use the slope function during practice rounds to calculate the actual distances based on elevation and take down some notes for your competition rounds.
If you’re a casual golfer who doesn’t play tournaments, the slope function is something you can use all the time. If you play weekend competitions, you can use the slope function in the week and switch it off on weekends. That’s the best part, all golf rangefinders with the slope function give you the ability to switch off the function at any time.
The slope models are a bit more expensive, so there is that to consider.
The next couple of models are designed for hunting and should be avoided. When buying a rangefinder, there’s no need to complicate your life when the equipment is actually meant to make it more convenient.
A golf rangefinder has been designed specifically for golf to pick up targets in front of trees and bushes while hunting rangefinders are designed to pick up targets behind the trees - this is very much not ideal for use on a golf course. Please don’t make yourself struggle unnecessarily.
You might find some sites telling you this is a good option for golf but I disagree and or the same amount of money, a budget golf rangefinder will perform exactly how you need it to.
Great for bow-hunting, bad for pin-hunting. Yes they're cheap but you'll tear your hair out trying to shoot pins with this thing.
Rangefinders used for hunting are often very well priced and may seem appealing at first but once you see the difference between a hunting and a golf rangefinder you'll realize how much better a golf rangefinder works.
As mentioned above hunting range finders give preference to the object in the background such as a deer or a wild boar walking behind bushes and trees while a golf rangefinder gives preference to the object closer in the foreground. That's how they can pick up pins with a row of trees behind them.
Golf rangefinders a suitable for every level of player and there's not a single golfer who won’t benefit from a golf rangefinder.
“I’m not good enough to get one yet”
Some people think you should only get a rangefinder when you hit your clubs consistent distances. I think that’s unfair on the golfer.
No matter what skill level you are, having a range of distances you hit your clubs will help you become a better player. Keeping track in a notebook is helpful over the long term to show you how tight the range between good and bad strikes is.
The key is to understand how far you hit your club MOST OF THE TIME. A lot of golfers will use the distance they hit one ball one time as their benchmark. For example, someone might hit a 7 iron 175 yards once and use that as their 7 iron distance when in reality, they hit the 7 iron 165 yards 80% of the time.
“It slows down play”
Some people think that shooting distances is a laborious process. It’s really not and is very quick and easy.
It takes no more than 5 or 6 seconds to get it out the pouch, shoot the distance and put it back. I usually find the distance while the other guys are still playing. Before arriving at my ball I’ve already looked at the target to select what I want to find distances to.
Most of the rangefinders you see on Tour will be Bushnells. They’re some of the pricier ones on the market in a similar way Titleist is the most expensive golf ball because the pros all use them.
A famous camera and binocular company that have expanded into the golf market. They make really nice rangefinders for golf in the form of the COOLSHOT 20 and 40 models.
You’ll see this name often when looking for a rangefinder but I don’t recommend them. Quality is not as high as other rangefinders on the list above.
Leupold are a very famous optics company for hunting but in terms of golf rangefinders, their products are very high quality but also with a very high price. I haven’t met a single golfer on the course who uses one.
Callaway have dipped their toe into the rangefinder realm and from what I’ve heard, they’re actually made by Nikon.
In the end, I decided to get a Bushnell Tour V4 because my hands are small and the model I really fell in love with, the X7 Pro, didn't work on my sunglasses. I was looking at cheaper models but decided that sometimes it's just better to get a more expensive item especially one that is so important to my game. The Bushnell Tour V3 was my gateway drug into the rangefinder market and I'll never play golf without one again.
Undoubtedly the single best purchase you can make for your game is a great golf rangefinder to help you learn more about your game as well as be more accurate on the course for lower and lower scores. Good luck!
Features & benefits
• Spin & feel from urethane cover
• 4 layers for Tour-like performance
• Balata-like heavy soft feel
• Ultra low compression for lower spin on long shots for more distance
• Higher ball flight
• Much cheaper
Who will benefit?
• Golfers looking for better green side performance
• Low ball hitters and golfers looking for more distance
• More expensive
• Marshmallowy feel on putts
The two most popular balls from Callaway seem to be locked in a head to head struggle for dominance.
But the distinction between the two is clear. One is a premium ball aimed at golfers who require more spin around the greens, while the other is a distance ball which means they're aimed at golfers looking for longer, straighter shots while sacrificing spin.
As you can see, the Supersoft and Chrome Soft golf balls are like comparing apples and oranges.
The Callaway Chrome Soft is made of four layers. By default this means it's a ball aimed at the better player looking to shape the golf ball left and right as well as for golfers who want to get more grip and rip on the greens.
Coupled with the multiple layers, the ball is encased in a urethane cover to spin a lot more on every shot than a low compression two piece surlyn covered ball. You can expect some golf balls spinning backwards with these especially with a wedge in your hand.
Soft urethane also generally scuffs easier but in the Chrome Soft, you'll find one of the more durable covers currently available.
The Callaway Supersoft is a two-piece golf ball consisting of the inner core and the outer cover which is surlyn or as Callaway named it, Trionomer.
Surlyn covers are much firmer and less 'spinny' than urethane and are supposed to be more durable. However, the Supersoft cover is not as durable as the Chrome Soft which is a surprise. It does cost half the price though, so that makes sense.
The two-piece design of the Supersoft provides a core with low compression of 38 which in combination with the low spinning cover, reduces the spin of your shots for longer bombs. You'll have a higher ball flight which compensates for the lower spin rate, to help stop the ball on the greens.
A surlyn and two-piece construction means you'll like this ball if you just want more distance especially if you swing your driver under 90 mph. The name of the game with this ball is LOW SPIN. It will feel super duper soft, but it will not spin as much as a premium golf ball.
Callaway's Chrome Soft feels exactly like a Tour ball because it's actually played on Tour. Around the greens, it provides gentler feel than the Supersoft. Off the putter face, the Chrome soft feels bouncy and reactive so overall, the Chrome Soft ball is competing with the Titleist Pro V1.
You'll notice the big difference between the balls in terms of spin when you're inside 130 yards. The Chrome Soft checks up and spins a lot more than the Supersoft on the shorter approaches. If you're a generally high spin player, you'll stop a Supersoft within a a couple feet of it's pitch mark but rip it back with the Chrome Soft.
The Supersoft runs out a lot more and won't check up on the green like the Chrome Soft. It's best for bump and run chips on the greens which is strange but it just goes to show, SOFTNESS does not equal SPIN. Off the putter it feels a bit marshmallowy like a piece of soap. Off the tee and with your irons, if you're an average to slower swinger, you very well might notice a slight distance increase.
Supersofts come in more colors than the Chrome Soft, but the Chrome Soft does have the Truvis soccer ball pattern option. If your eye-sight is not so great and you're a slower swinger, the Supersofts are a fantastic choice.
Get the Chrome Soft if you want a Tour quality ball that spins on the greens. If you're after more distance and less shape, particularly with a speed around 85 or 90 mph, the Supersoft is a great choice.
Diabetic golfers are at high risk of developing nerve damage as well as poor circulation in the feet. Impaired circulation causes wounds on the feet to heal slower, which increases the risk of infection. Nerve damage can cause numbness in the feet, which means you might not be able to feel heat, cold, or pain in your feet.
A golfer with diabetes and these complications might not notice that his shoes are rubbing or pinching his feet as well as not noticing when there are sharp objects inside the golf shoe such as stones or even a paperclip. That can wreak havoc on your feet over a 4 or 5 hour round.
Impaired circulation and the damage to nerves when combined make feet more susceptible to foot ulcers. Bad-fitting shoes increase that risk exponentially from friction and rubbing, but finding the best golf shoes for diabetics is easier than ever with the new styles released by the top golf shoe manufacturers.
Your feet will thank you and you'll be golfing for years to come.
The Ecco Men's Cage golf shoe has a strong heel to provide support without rubbing and provides a lot of padding around the throat of the shoe. The BOA system to tighten and loosen the shoe makes it easy to adjust to your feet and the toe box is made of very soft breathable material to keep you dry.
This is where your toes and ball of your foot go. The shoe should be long enough so the toes don't hit the front and have enough space for toes to wiggle and wide enough to not pinch the balls of the feet.
Breathable material is preferred to keep your feet dry - perforated leather is good while cloth can be better as long as you're not playing in wet conditions. Sweat will evaporate and keep you drier. A nice soft toe box that won't rub and irritate your foot is a good idea.
A drier foot is less likely to develop an ulcer or wound as you walk around the course.
The tongue should be wide enough with enough padding so that the laces don’t dig into the top of your foot. Some shoes tongues have slits in the middle so you can thread the laces to hold the tongue in place. This will prevent it sliding around as you walk for hours on the course.
This is the opening where you stick your foot into the shoe. The rim of the throat should be well padded and low enough so it doesn't rub your ankle bones where the skin is very thinly stretched making it more susceptible to friction injury.
This is the area that cups your heel. A higher heel counter will provide more support and less rubbing as you walk. Shoes with a high heel counter have a notch for the Achilles tendon to avoid digging into it.
This part of the shoe usually made of carbon rubber that comes into direct contact with the ground, so it must be long-lasting and flexible.
Slip-on loafer style golf shoes are no good because there is very little of the shoe covering the top of the foot so they provide inadequate support. They're also often made of unpadded, rigid leather, which can be a source of friction.
Golf sandals are unsuitable because the straps cause friction.
Stud pressure from golf shoes can cause pain especially in the balls of the feet. The new and increasingly popular spikeless golf shoe adds comfort to the walk and in my spikeless golf shoes, I can play 36 holes easily while traditional golf shoes with hard insole really hurt after 14 or 15 holes.
Laces threaded through leather or fabric loops or punched-out holes have more give than through plastic or metal eyelets. We want some give so the shoe can morph to the shape of your foot as you walk out there on the course.
Round laces stretch more than flat laces which can be beneficial for those long walks that you spoil with golf shots. Rigid and inflexible laces can crate pressure on your skin.
A great solution by many manufacturers is to have a tightness adjuster on the tongue or heel of the golf shoe that you can turn like a wrench to tighten or loosen the shoes. They're convenient and make life very easy for a golfer with diabetes.
The Ecco Pro Cage BOA has everything you could want to protect your feet. It's encased with a 'cage' that supports your foot from heel to toe. The laces are easy to adjust by turning the little knob on the top of the tongue to give you an even fit that you can adjust to perfection to prevent rubbing especially on the top of your foot.
The throat is well padded with a high heel section but lower around the ankle. The spikeless design ensures none of that pesky stud pressure that can really hurt the balls of your feet at the end of the round. You do pay for the privilege though and these shoes, like all Ecco's are expensive.
Very breathable upper with GoreTex incorporated into the shoe keeps your feet free from outside water and dries them from the inside with breathable material. The best golf shoe for diabetics and with the soft insole it should be great out of the box, but you can also get yourself some orthotics to slip in for a more comfortable bottom.
The Go Pro 2 from Skechers is used by everyone's favorite golfer, Matt Kuchar and it's easy to see why. Like their sneakers, Skechers has made a shoe that's very comfortable but also has a waterproof toe box to keep your feet nice and dry from outside water.
The soft spikes are replaceable on the bottom of the shoes and provide excellent grip so you won't be slipping down slopes. Round laces mean that the shoes have more 'give' when you walk to flex with your foot and these laces thread through a slit in the tongue to keep that tongue in place, further helping to prevent rubbing.
Padding in the throat combined with the high and firm heel support mean the shoe stays put, keeping your heel and Achilles unhindered.
Adidas have made a very lightweight and well priced golf shoe in the Tech Response. The large amount of breathable material on the shoe means your feet can breathe and stay dry from your sweat.
While the breathability and light weight is the upside, the downside is that the shoe will let moisture in from outside. For morning golfers, the dew might permeate in, but as the day dries up, the water will have an easy time evaporating, leaving you dry.
Round laces threaded through punched-out holes and through a slit in the tongue means your shoe will move with your foot instead of being rigid with a lot of foot friction.
Another downside is less padding in the throat but still a sufficient amount to feel like a decent tennis shoe. The high heel support and low ankle height of the throat make it really easy to wear with sturdy support for the back of your foot.
The Tour360 Boost is a more 'traditional' looking shoe and less like the comfy trainer types you see which are made for comfort and a casual look.
But make no mistake, these are excellent shoes with unique features for adding flexibility and comfort. The area under the middle of the shoe provides for more flexibility between the ball of your foot and the heel for better arch support. Above that area, around the middle of the foot is a 360Wrap which, when tightened, provides extra support and fit to the middle of your foot.
The laces are flat and thread through eyelets but do thread through a slit in the tongue. The tongue will stay in place all round long. The eyelets may not be totally ideal, but with the extra tech under in the sole and the Wrap360 add that extra level of support.
Special foam in the soles give you extra bounce and support for those long walks. A very good looking shoe that keeps the water out and aids in dispersing the sweat on the inside.
Ecco have become famous for their comfortable golf shoes and were the footwear of choice for the two most chill PGA Tour pros, Ernie Els and Freddy Couples. The Biom model is the one you see them wearing as they glide the fairways of the Tour.
With yak leather uppers, the Danish shoes are made to last and are breathable as well as water-resistant. The rounded laces thread nicely through a tongue slit for a stable fit and the throat is padded for comfort. You can imagine Ernie and Freddy wearing these to bed even.
The spikeless shoes are comfortable for walking and with the reputation of Ecco, you can trust these will be comfortable right out the box and last you a very long time. The spikeless bottom is durable and there's no need to worry about the mini studs wearing out any time soon.
You can buy a pair of shoes, send them back if they're the wrong size and get your perfect fit. Once you find that pair of shoes that keeps your feet feeling fresh all round long, you'll wonder why you didn't do it earlier. Imagine sitting int he clubhouse with no pain under your feet and ready to play another 18 holes. Those beaten up old 'classic', 'traditional' golf shoes aren't doing you any favors. Try a pair of Eccos and you might end up using Ecco for every shoe in your closet.
There's a bit of a stigma attached to both recycled and refurbished golf balls. While that stigma may be valid particularly against the refurbished balls but there's a bit more to it.
We'll dive into the issue together in this article and we'll take a look at
In essence, you're getting a golf ball that looks brand new but is a second hand ball that has been stripped of some of the outer layer and repainted.
A recycled ball on the other hand is a ball found on the golf course and resold in the condition that is was found. The seller will more than likely clean it with some soapy water and a towel but you're getting a ball that hasn't been altered other than by nature.
Refurbished golf balls are sandblasted by the company that purchases/finds the, In the sandblasting process, a fraction of the cover is stripped away to remove all exterior scratches. After the sandblasting process, they then paint the cover with a glossy finish and restamp the ball with the desired brand and model.
There's not too much wrong with recycled balls. If you buy them from a reputable seller, you'll get a decent collection with five out of every fifty being a bit scruffy but still playable.
The only real issue with recycled balls are the ones that have been burned by fire or have their cover chipping and peeling away. Otherwise the difference for the average golfer is negligible.
Those yellow blemishes on the golf ball? I've never found them to affect my performance. If every shot you're playing counts for $20,000 like a professional, it would be something to worry about.
A lot of guys complain about other peoples Sharpie markings or corporate logos on recycled golf balls. But if you're buying used golf balls, that's like getting free ice cold beer and complaining that it's not your favorite brand. Just take it and run!
There's something untrustworthy about these balls.
In general, you're getting a recycled ball that's been made a bit smoother with sandblasting and a new coat of paint plus a new stamp of the brand you're looking for.
Now is that ball with the Pro V1 stamp on it, really a Pro V1? In other words, did they sandblast and repaint another brand and trick you into buying a fake Pro V1 by stamping it with Pro V1? Those are the questions I ask myself which means I don't recommend playing refurbished balls.
The only problem you're going to have with new balls is the price, especially if you lose a few!
New balls perform best and as advertised.
The refinished and repainted covers of the refurbished golf balls wear off and reveal the worn out old cover underneath pretty quickly. In terms of performance, they'll perform similarly to a new ball if they're not too old or too waterlogged, but how can we know what condition they were in before they were repainted? And is that Pro V1 really a Pro V1?
Recycled balls perform very well and it's easier to see what condition they're in before you hit one! You'll noticed immediately if the cover has been worn away by the sun or water. In general, with the huge demand for used golf balls, lost balls don't spend too long in the water or the woods. There's always someone finding them and reselling them so you can bet on them performing very close to a new ball.
Which one you buy all depends on your priorities.
Are you a high or mid handicapper who doesn't lose many balls? Buy new and get the best you can afford to maximize your performance. Check out my guide for high handicappers here and mid handicappers here.
Does the thought of losing an expensive or new ball make you tense up and hit poor shots? Downgrade to a lower priced ball or buy used.
Do you need the best performance possible and have unlimited funds? Buy the best new balls you can.
There's no right or wrong answer really but I urge you not to be suckered into buying refurbished golf balls.
I hope I've convinced you to avoid playing refurbished golf balls and are more comfortable teeing it up with a second hand ball that's merely been cleaned with some soap and water. Don't overthink it - if you like new balls play new balls. If you want to save a few bucks and you're prone to losing a few, feel happy in your decision to play second hand!
We all have tough days on the course but it gets a lot tougher when you're playing for a living and trying to win majors. The pressure must be unbelievable.
Sometimes that pressure gets to even the best. Here's a collection of some of the most unbelievable meltdowns and collapses in golf history.
No one likes to see bad things happen to nice people and Jordan seems like a really nice, nerdy guy. I've played a replica hole of the 12th at Augusta and believe me it's difficult.
All that carry over water with a small green guarded by bunkers front and back with maybe 10 yards of landing space. With the pressure of a major over your head, that landing area gets smaller and smaller.
This little set back didn't keep him down for long. He may have lost the 2016 Masters with this meltdown, but he got past it and won the British Open in 2017.
Mickelson was leading by two after 15 holes and on the 18th he was a shot ahead of Geoff Ogilvy, but on the tee of the 450-yard par-4 he made a terrible swing, a push-slice that bounced off a hospitality tent waaaay left of the fairway.
What happened next was a series of mistakes more fitting of an 18 handicap. Trying to cut a three-iron around a tree he instead hit it into the tree trunk, the ball rolled right back to him. On the next one, Mickelson over cut it, flying the ball into a buried lie in the left greenside bunker, leaving an almost impossible shot.
Minutes earlier he was about to win the US Open. Suddenly he needed to get up and down just for an 18-hole playoff. Mickelson's long bunker shot came out hot and rolled off the green - his chip for bogey never had a chance.
He's won the British open twice but must surely have the most top 5 finishes at the Masters without a victory. The poor guy really wanted a Masters green jacket but just could never quite pull it all together.
In the 1996 Masters, he had his best chance, going into the final round with a 6 shot lead over Nick Faldo. He even shot a course record 63 on his way to the lead on Sunday morning. When it was over, Norman turned his 6-shot overnight lead into a deficit.
If I had the ability to cry, I would probably cry during this one.
Needing to just keep his ball dry after Montgomerie stuck his in the water, 'Calc' did the unthinkable. Montgomerie also made a great decision on the putting green. This is a very undermentioned meltdown.
I'll never forget this one. I watched the entire day's coverage right up until the end of the 17th hole but switched it off because I figured, oh well, it's settled. I went out to the grocery store and came back about and hour later to find the British Open still on and there was a Frenchman in the water without any shoes on!
I missed the entire meltdown. But I've watched it 100 times since. All you needed to do was hit 4 pitching wedges!
He may have had a meltdown in 2010 and been suspended for performance enhancing drugs like cocaine, and had a few "liasons' with other players' wives, but he is still one of the best out there and can hit a long ball. Plus he's with that Gretsky lady so I'm sure the meltdown below isn't even on his mind.
If he was playing while on his performance enhancers, he might not even have any memory of it at all.
Not really a meltdown but it's always reassuring to know that even the greatest, most revolutionary golfer the ever live can put up an 85. Just like you and me.
Haven't we all had a little chip with a carry halfway between us and the pin? Usually it goes two ways, either 6 foot past or chunk it short. With all those people surrounding him and the pressure of a nation's expectations, his heart must've been in his throat.
I always put myself in these situations o the course and imagine the shot's for a major or Ryder cup win. And if I were Hunter, I would've done the same thing. Painful to watch and imagine that stomach dropping feeling.
Jason Day literally collapsed. What appears to be an attention seeking incident or even a half-hearted attempt at escaping the US Open, is actually someone suffering from Vertigo.
Not quite sure what vertigo is, but it doesn't look fun.